Argentina

Bariloche and the Lake District

 

Dramatic, beautiful and unspoiled, the lake district is probably what heaven looks like. The gateway to superb trekking, fishing, climbing and skiing, or a quiet R&R spot. Whatever you're looking for – it's here. Bariloche itself is a lovely tourist town situated on the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi, and is the best place to explore the lake district from. Bariloche has an extensive tourist infrastructure (hotels, restaurants etc.), but is mainly famous for its chocolate shops!

 

 

What to Do?

 

·     Bariloche looks and feels like you somehow got to the Swiss Alps. But then you pay for something and are reminded that no, you are indeed still in South America. The Centro Civico is a lovely visit. It is built in Alpine style and contains the Museo de la Patagonia also.

·     Bariloche is surrounded by mountains that provide a great lookout on the city and its surrounding lakes (there's seven of them). Cerro Otto (5km from the city) has a revolving restaurant on top and splendid views. It is accessible by Teleferico (cable car), or you can climb on your own (It will take about 3-4 hours and is not steep or dangerous at all, as you are walking on a paved road). Cerro Campanario (17 km) is accessible by chairlift and also has fine views.

·     Circuito Chico is a 60 km circular route that begins at the 18th km from Bariloche and takes you to Llao Llao (a very famous, and expensive, hotel). You can do it on a bus or rent a bike in town and cycle for about a day.

·     The Seven Lakes Drive – This is a bigger circuit that takes you through breathtaking views of unspoilt stretches of water, forested mountains and quaint towns such as Villa La Angostura. There are places to sleep along the way and it is recommended to do it with a rented car (many places to rent a car in Bariloche). Many also do it with rented bicycles. It is slightly complicated as you have to carry all your equipment on the bikes, but it is doable so if you like to pedal – choose this option.

·     Hikes and Treks. Bariloche is surrounded with many options for treks of a few days. Before you leave visit the Club Andino office (Argentina's park rangers). They will provide routes, maps, and directions and will give you everything you need to know – mostly free of charge (maps might cost about 5 USD). There are refugios (mountain cabins) where you can sleep (7-10 USD), but bring a sleeping bag as it gets really cold at night. Here are some recommended treks:

o    Circuito Cerro Catedral – This trek is gorgeous but strenuous. Get ready to walk around 8-10 hours per day, depends on how fast you are. There's some climbing, even in snow, crossing rivers, and always gorgeous views. Bring a sleeping bag, warm clothes for the night and money to pay the refugios. Day 1 From Bariloche to Refugio Frey (sleep at Refugio Frey). Day 2 from Frey to Refugio Jacob (sleep at Refugio Jacob). Day 3 return to Bariloche.

o    Trek Otto Meiling – This trek will have you climbing a mountain and sleeping between two huge glaciers. It's a two day trek. Leave from Pampa Linda (bus leaves from Bariloche). Walk up to Refugio Otto Meiling (about 5-7 hours). Sleep at the refugio. Walk back the next day.

·     There are more recommended towns in the lake district if you have more time. One is El Bolson, a quiet and attractive town that has a big hippie population that got there in the 70's. They have a great market on Tuesdays where they sell handicrafts, fruit and homemade cakes and jam. There are many walks and treks nearby. Again, get all the information and maps in the Club Andino office. A recommended trek is the trek to Hielo Azul. It is a three day trek that takes you to two small and isolated refugios (first night - Refugio Hielo Azul, second night – Refugio Cajon de Azul), and to a literally breathtaking glacier. A nice day hike is to the Bosque Tallado, a small forest with native sculptures.

·     Other popular towns worth a visit are San Martin de los Andes and Junin de los Andes.

 

Facilities:

 

The tourist office in Bariloche is in the Centro Civico, on Calle Urquiza, between Avenida San Martin and Avenida Rosas, by the lake. Bariloche has an extensive tourist infrastructure, and in the center of town you'll never have to walk more than a block to find a hotel, a restaurant, an ATM, a bank, a money exchange, etc.

 

Where to Stay?

·     Generally, expect to pay 10 to 15 USD per night at a dormitory in the lake district.

·     In Bariloche - Albergue La Bolsa de Deportes is a great hostel. Full of backpackers, in a convenient location, with a friendly staff that will gladly sit with you and help you plan trips and hikes of 1 or more days. They have bike rentals, maps and more. 13 USD per night in a dormitory. Better book ahead in summer.

·     In El Bolson – Refugio Patagonico. A friendly hostel that also has a lot of information and bike renting.

 

 

Special Tips:

·     Hiking lovers should know that the lake district, while it contains some of the most beautiful treks in the continent (some say in the world) – it's not easy to trek in because of weather conditions. Summer is the only time it is safe to trek here (November-February, December-January ideal), but even then it can rain. A lot even. A good rain jacket is simply a must. Also, temperatures drop immensely at night, always bring warm clothes to sleep in, and a good sleeping bag adequate to these temperatures.

·     Mmmm… Chocolate. Bariloche is famous for quaint little chocolate shops that have truly delicious treats. Don't miss Abuela Goya and Mamuschka. Recommendation: buy some chocolate to go and take it to the lake with a good book and an iPod!

·     A great steak restaurant is the already famous El Boliche De Alberto. Seriously, do not miss these awesome streaks of the wonderful Argentinean meat (Parilla), at the cost of around 8-12 USD. Unbelievable and always full (and there's a huge line outside).

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