Bolivia

La Paz

 

 Only hearing or pronouncing the name “La Paz”, makes you feel its magic and mystery.

The second capital of Bolivia is definitely the most important and interesting city around this country.

The Markets, views, people, culture, history, architecture, smells and colors- it’s just something you must experience!

Founded on October 20th 1548 by the Spanish commander Alonso De Mendoza under the name “Nuestra Senora de La Paz” or in English “our lady of peace”. Years later when the city was liberated only the name La Paz was left.

This city is really breathtaking for the elevation (3600m), structure and crowdedness (880,000 people).

 The best way to understand the way it’s built is coming from the uphill neighborhoods or the El Alto airport, this way you get marvelous observation point on the city area and you’ll see how the city stretches from down the bottom of a canyon up to the top of the hills surrounding, all back rounded with the supreme Illimani mountain.

La Paz is great to visit as a main attraction or to be “used” as a home base. You return and leave to the variety of activities available.

 

Where to go:

• Muela Del Diablo: This is a great thing to do when you just get to La Paz, a combination of a short walk and a simple climb between tiny villages, through a unique cemetery all above the city which allows great view and a nice way to adjust to the altitude.
• Tiahuanaco: If you have a few hours free and you are interested in seeing some archeology this is a nice site, only 70 km away. The site shows the deep belief and connection between Tiahuanaco tribe and “Pacha Mama”- mother earth. Ancient ruins, temples and more historic remains are just too interesting.
  Take a tour from the city or do it yourself by buses just make sure you stop on the way to see the Royal Mountains.
• Valle de la Luna: Only 12 km from the city you can visit the moon. Well not really but many believe that this beautiful valley is very close to it. You can definitely expect a great vision of sharp, weird and extraordinary rock formations, hundreds fossils and vivid sunsets all creating an “earth version” of the moon. If going on your own take the blue 11 bus from Plaza San Francisco.
• San Pedro Prison: Don’t be fooled by the name, this is not a regular prison, the San Pedro prison is like a small city with a real community life and institutions.
  There are no guards inside and inmates don’t wear uniform and the people inside can live with their families. They have to work as well in order to make money to rent or buy the cell.
  Within the prison it’s like a little town divided into eight sections. The areas are all different and rated from the best to the worst according to parameters such as violence, money, crowdedness and cleanliness but don’t be fooled as the supposedly better areas are as dangerous, especially when nighttime approaches.
  All issues are meant to be solved by the different unions made by the representatives elected by the people but very often this system doesn’t prevent the violence, robberies and murders when prisoners solve problems in their own way.
  
  Lately it’s a little difficult to take this tour so you may need to try harder than most people to arrange this tour. It’s usually available on Sundays and Thursdays. Don’t forget to bring a passport, you may be asked to deposit it with your camera (if you have one) while visiting.
• Death Road: This is the old road from La Paz to Coroico, used to be essential when travelling to the northern parts of Bolivia. This outrageous name was given after many accidents ending all with hundreds of meters fall taking dozens of lives year after year. This road isn’t used anymore for transportation and is left there for the memory and adventurous tourists. If you like mountain biking and adrenalin don’t miss on this great adventure. Great view is guaranteed!
  There are many companies offering this downhill ride from La Cumbre (4700mts) down to Yolosa (1200mts). This is definitely dangerous but also one of the most recommended activities among travelers through the entire continent.
• Zongo Valley: This is a great option for a one day trek, not too far away from the city. Zongo valley is just under the Huayana Potosi’ mountain. There are two beautiful lagoons and snow covered mountaintops all around. To go there take an early taxi from the city to uptown La Paz and ask the driver for the Zongo bus station. Get there before 7 am and don’t forget to bring warm clothing.

 

Museums:

La Paz is wealthy with museums, easy and cheap to visit. Here is a list of most of them and a short brief on just a few of them. Most museums are located at Calle Jaen so you can even walk through the street and just pop into any that attract you eye.

 

• Museo de Instrumentos Musicales: Any music lovers or musicians visiting La Paz would be surprised and fascinated by this huge collection of instruments. Many of the instruments are local and aged ones especially the “Charango”. It’s also possible to take lessons and play the different instruments.
• Museo de Metals Preciosos: This is what travelers call “Gold Museum”; this great presentation of metals has three sections each dedicated to a different metals: Copper, pre Colombian silver and Gold.
• Museo de Textiles Andinos Bolivianos: As most of you will buy some weaved souvenirs, you might as well see and learn a little about Bolivia’s textile tradition. Pieces and techniques from all over the country, including examples and details from the beginning to the end of the process, bring  you the final item as you can see it on the market.
• Coca Museum: This unusual museum is not mostly about the Coca as most know it, just a drug (cocaine). This is where all the uses of Coca growth are presented. From the traditional part in old societies, to the medical use and soft drinks industry. All you wanted to know about Coca but were afraid to ask.

 

Markets- “because La Paz is a giant market”:

Like mentioned before La Paz is a great place to shop, whether your mind is after souvenirs, electronics, leathers or really anything you crave, this is the place. Most markets are connected so exiting one is entering the next.

Basically people will try to sell you anything anywhere anytime, so you can shop whenever you see something you want or plan a tour to any of the bigger markets. Here is a short list of a few selected markets out of the dozens. 

 

• Mercado de Hechiceria: “The Witches’ Market” like tourists call it, is a very unusual market. Here you can find mainly women selling merchandise to worship Pacha Mama and Aymara spirits. All sorts of herbs, potions, dead bugs and many more are offered here. A very unusual sight is the many llama fetuses dried and displayed for sale. The locals use it to berry beneath a new house, as gift to Pacha Mama hoping for good luck in return.
• Flower Market: The flower market is across the road from the Batista cemetery. It’s a beautiful mixture of colors and scents, unfortunately located in a very neglected and dirty area.
• Mercado 16 de Julio: This may be the biggest market of La Paz, here there is everything from food to electronics and gadgets even animals are offered here and really anything you can dream of.
• Mercado Lanza: This market is about one thing only, food! A great place just to see or even shop if you need groceries. Best prices for everything, including meals if you feel like a different and cheap one.
• Mercado Negro: The black market or “thieves market” as some call it. Any brand name from all sectors can be found here at extremely cheap prices. Electronics, Designer clothing, Bags, purses and more, most copied or stolen. Some travelers reported that after finding out an item was stolen from them, went straight to this market and actually bought back their belongings. Extra caution with your valuables is needed when going there.

 

When to go:

Fall to Early winter (May to July) would make the best time to visit La Paz, just a little cold but mostly dry. The rest of the year until November is also ok. But from November to April it’s really not recommended for the heavy rains and the harsh conditions.

  

How to go:

• Plane: Taking a flight from\to any major destination in South America is possible straight to El Alto airport just 10km from the city.
• Bus: Buses and other similar transportation are available to/from anywhere around Bolivia at the main Bus terminal a short walk north from the city center.
• Train: If you want to go to Chile or Argentina or the south of Bolivia trains are available through Oruro.

 

 

Tips:

• If you just arrived to Bolivia or South America and not familiar with this extreme altitude, take it easy the first day or two. Let your body adjust to the elevation and thin air before you rush into the city as a sickness could affect your whole journey.
• If planning to go to the Moon Valley (Valle de La Luna) there is an option of renting a motorbike or a quad bike (dirt buggy) at most agencies. Very recommended by travelers.
• After all the Shopping you have done don’t worry for room in your luggage as Bolivia’s post service is one of the cheapest in the world. Many travelers use it to get rid of unwanted gear and gifts before moving ahead.
• Taking pictures of locals is usually fine but some of them don’t like it and have negative beliefs on it, so if you are not sure ask for their permission. Usually buying something of them or actually paying is the only way.
• La Paz is a place where there are event and celebrations all year long, so when arriving remember to get an update on the upcoming festivals.
• La Paz is very cheap so if it’s your first stop of the journey, it’s a good place to buy gear.
• When taking a taxi make sure it’s a licensed (marked) one. There were many cases of people trying to save a few cents on a “fake” cab, ended being robbed.
• If you entered Bolivia and got only a 30 day visa but planning to stay longer La Paz is the best place to go to extend it (up to 90 days) at the immigration office.